[BOB] Tektro Brake Lever Blues

tree | flat

posted by John Bratton on Apr 7 2011 09:44A to Internet-BOB

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Hi folks- Do you ever feel somewhat less than mechanically competent? I sure
get that way sometimes. I was trying to adjust the high-profile cantilevers
on my mtn-bike-turned commuter Miyata, and finally got tired of the
fiddlyness of the smooth stud pads. I figured, OK, I'll start fresh. Bought
some Tektro CR720 brakes to go with the Tektro R200A ergo drop bar brake
levers already on there. I figured I'd do a quick install on the front just
to see how things went, using the existing brake cable. On that one, I
figure I need to lower the straddle cable a bit, which of course puts the
straddle right where my dynolight wants to be. But, for right now, at least
the front works. I'll optimize later and figure if I want to bend the light
mount or what.

On the rear, I figured I'd go ahead and do it right and start with a new
cable. Install brakes on post. OK, the springs are a bit rattly, but then I
see that they tension when there will be a cable pre-loading them. All OK. I
get out my new cable, on of the "cut whichever end off you don't need" type.
I cut the mountain chock off, the feed the end into the brake levers. First
the cable end mount, and then... OK, it heads on further in there. Somehow.
Somewhere. I can see, if I put a flashlight just right, that there's an
orifice of some sort on the far end. But it really doesn't seem to want to
take the cable.

Anybody have this problem before? I realize now that this is the first time
I've installed a new cable in an existing set-up with these Tektro levers. I
even thought, OK, well, if it's so dang hard to get the cable in there, why
don't I pull the lever off of the bar, so I can eyeball it, hold it in my
hand etc. But, ugh, of course the bars are taped. And twined at the ends.
And that tactic may not get me too far anyway.

Got any tips? I know one would be to get a real cable. It sort of tweaks me
that when you buy a standard cable these days, it is an "either/or" cable,
suitable for mountain or road use. Now I know that helps with inventory
control at shops, but it sure as heck is annoying not to have a tinned end
to work with. Heck, I've probably frayed and cut clean this cable I'm using
enough times that it isn't even long enough to use on the back now. Urg.

The Tektro manual says, "Insert the brake cable into the cable pull and
through backside of the lever. Insert cable into the housing and push the
using firmly into back of the brake lever until it is seated firmly in the
housing stop." I'm no wiser. Is there something I'm missing?

John "befuddled by old technology" Bratton
Denver, CO

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<div>Hi folks- Do you ever feel somewhat less than mechanically competent? =
I sure get that way sometimes. I was trying to adjust the high-profile cant=
ilevers on my mtn-bike-turned commuter Miyata, and finally got tired of the=
 fiddlyness of the smooth stud pads. I figured, OK, I&#39;ll start fresh. B=
ought some Tektro CR720 brakes to go with the Tektro R200A ergo drop bar br=
ake levers already on there. I figured I&#39;d do a quick install on the fr=
ont just to see how things went, using the existing brake cable. On that on=
e, I figure I need to lower the straddle cable a bit, which of course puts =
the straddle right where my dynolight wants to be. But, for right now, at l=
east the front works. I&#39;ll optimize later and figure if I want to bend =
the light mount or what.=A0</div>
<div><br></div><div>On the rear, I figured I&#39;d go ahead and do it right=
 and start with a new cable. Install brakes on post. OK, the springs are a =
bit rattly, but then I see that they tension when there will be a cable pre=
-loading them. All OK. I get out my new cable, on of the &quot;cut whicheve=
r end off you don&#39;t need&quot; type. I cut the mountain chock off, the =
feed the end into the brake levers. First the cable end mount, and then... =
OK, it heads on further in there. Somehow. Somewhere. I can see, if I put a=
 flashlight just right, that there&#39;s an orifice of some sort on the far=
 end. But it really doesn&#39;t seem to want to take the cable.=A0<br>
</div><div><br></div><div>Anybody have this problem before? I realize now t=
hat this is the first time I&#39;ve installed a new cable in an existing se=
t-up with these Tektro levers. I even thought, OK, well, if it&#39;s so dan=
g hard to get the cable in there, why don&#39;t I pull the lever off of the=
 bar, so I can eyeball it, hold it in my hand etc. But, ugh, of course the =
bars are taped. And twined at the ends. And that tactic may not get me too =
far anyway.</div>
<div><br></div><div>Got any tips? I know one would be to get a real cable. =
It sort of tweaks me that when you buy a standard cable these days, it is a=
n &quot;either/or&quot; cable, suitable for mountain or road use. Now I kno=
w that helps with inventory control at shops, but it sure as heck is annoyi=
ng not to have a tinned end to work with. Heck, I&#39;ve probably frayed an=
d cut clean this cable I&#39;m using enough times that it isn&#39;t even lo=
ng enough to use on the back now. Urg.=A0</div>
<div><br></div><div>The Tektro manual says, &quot;Insert the brake cable in=
to the cable pull and through backside of the lever. Insert cable into the =
housing and push the using firmly into back of the brake lever until it is =
seated firmly in the housing stop.&quot; I&#39;m no wiser. Is there somethi=
ng I&#39;m missing?</div>
<div><br></div><div>John &quot;befuddled by old technology&quot; Bratton</d=
iv><div>Denver, CO</div>

<p></p>

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After you remove the old cable the housing end can shift out of alignment
with the hole in the lever body. I jam a 1.5mm allen wrench in there to line
it up again before attempting with the cable.

I also like to spin the end of a cut cable against a grinder wheel (pointing
in the direction of spin) to give the cable end a bit of a chamfer, makes it
easier to feed into that hole way in the back of the lever.

Peter

On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 9:44 AM, John Bratton <jwbratton@gmail.com> wrote:

> First the cable end mount, and then... OK, it heads on further in there.
> Somehow. Somewhere. I can see, if I put a flashlight just right, that
> there's an orifice of some sort on the far end. But it really doesn't seem
> to want to take the cable.
>
>

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<div>After you remove the old cable the housing end can shift out of alignm=
ent with the hole in the lever body. I jam a 1.5mm allen wrench in there to=
 line it up again before attempting with the cable.</div><div><br></div>

<div><meta charset=3D"utf-8">I also like to spin the end of a cut cable aga=
inst a grinder wheel (pointing in the direction of spin) to give the cable =
end a bit of a chamfer, makes it easier to feed into that hole way in the b=
ack of the lever.=A0</div>

<div><br></div><div>Peter</div><div><br></div><div><div class=3D"gmail_quot=
e">On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 9:44 AM, John Bratton <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:jwbratton@gmail.com">jwbratton@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:=
<br>

<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;"><div>First the cable end mount, and then...=
 OK, it heads on further in there. Somehow. Somewhere. I can see, if I put =
a flashlight just right, that there&#39;s an orifice of some sort on the fa=
r end. But it really doesn&#39;t seem to want to take the cable.=A0</div>

<div><br></div></blockquote></div></div>

<p></p>

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et-bob?hl=3Den.<br />



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Unfortunately, with the levers on the bar, its a hit or miss
situation. Keep trying and stay patient. For the fraying cable end,
try a clean cut and a drup of glue, you can even try to point a point
on the end with the glue. I used to have to use this method with a
thru the chainstay RD cable on an old Trek.

As for the instructions, they are written and designed for the cables
to be inserted with the levers off the bars, so they are written as
such.

So once again. Try try try.

Scott



On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 12:44 PM, John Bratton <jwbratton@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi folks- Do you ever feel somewhat less than mechanically competent? I sure
> get that way sometimes. I was trying to adjust the high-profile cantilevers
> on my mtn-bike-turned commuter Miyata, and finally got tired of the
> fiddlyness of the smooth stud pads. I figured, OK, I'll start fresh. Bought
> some Tektro CR720 brakes to go with the Tektro R200A ergo drop bar brake
> levers already on there. I figured I'd do a quick install on the front just
> to see how things went, using the existing brake cable. On that one, I
> figure I need to lower the straddle cable a bit, which of course puts the
> straddle right where my dynolight wants to be. But, for right now, at least
> the front works. I'll optimize later and figure if I want to bend the light
> mount or what.
> On the rear, I figured I'd go ahead and do it right and start with a new
> cable. Install brakes on post. OK, the springs are a bit rattly, but then I
> see that they tension when there will be a cable pre-loading them. All OK. I
> get out my new cable, on of the "cut whichever end off you don't need" type.
> I cut the mountain chock off, the feed the end into the brake levers. First
> the cable end mount, and then... OK, it heads on further in there. Somehow.
> Somewhere. I can see, if I put a flashlight just right, that there's an
> orifice of some sort on the far end. But it really doesn't seem to want to
> take the cable.
>
> Anybody have this problem before? I realize now that this is the first time
> I've installed a new cable in an existing set-up with these Tektro levers. I
> even thought, OK, well, if it's so dang hard to get the cable in there, why
> don't I pull the lever off of the bar, so I can eyeball it, hold it in my
> hand etc. But, ugh, of course the bars are taped. And twined at the ends.
> And that tactic may not get me too far anyway.
> Got any tips? I know one would be to get a real cable. It sort of tweaks me
> that when you buy a standard cable these days, it is an "either/or" cable,
> suitable for mountain or road use. Now I know that helps with inventory
> control at shops, but it sure as heck is annoying not to have a tinned end
> to work with. Heck, I've probably frayed and cut clean this cable I'm using
> enough times that it isn't even long enough to use on the back now. Urg.
> The Tektro manual says, "Insert the brake cable into the cable pull and
> through backside of the lever. Insert cable into the housing and push the
> using firmly into back of the brake lever until it is seated firmly in the
> housing stop." I'm no wiser. Is there something I'm missing?
> John "befuddled by old technology" Bratton
> Denver, CO
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "internet-bob" group.
> To post to this group, send email to internet-bob@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> internet-bob+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/internet-bob?hl=enn
>

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Thanks for all the good suggestions, folk! Guess I'll get a cable with good
ends, try to line up the housing with the entry hole, and keep trying!

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Thanks for all the good suggestions, folk! Guess I&#39;ll get a cable with good
ends, try to line up the housing with the entry hole, and keep trying!<br>

<p></p>

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